What if European Grand Tours were a thing in the 21st century like they were in centuries' past?
I visited a special exhibit in Lisbon recently at the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation Museum titled "The Splendour of Venice". Quotes from 18th century writers and poets from around the world were interspersed with striking oil paintings of the city which transported me back in time.
That got me thinking about the aristocratic Grand Tours of Europe taken by people of means living in the 17th-19th Centuries. I argue that their correspondence is an antique form of travel blogging.
Following that chain of thought, I reflected on my own travels and writing since moving to Europe over a decade ago and concluded that I've essentially been on a modern day multi-year extended Grand Tour.
What if I could combine the two using the power of AI and take my readers on a reimagined journey to Florence, a must-see Grand Tour destination?
I decided to reimagine my recent workcation in Florence through the lens of 18th century Grand Tour traveler and epic correspondent, Horace Walpole.
An AI Approach to Reimagining Travel - First Draft
So, how did I prompt my way to an 18th century style account of my very modern trip to Florence?
I first asked Gemini to give me a timeline of leisure travel throughout history (from Ancient Greece to modern times) and then asked for 3 examples of popular travel writers during the heyday of the Grand Tour.
Horace Walpole jumped out due to his prolific correspondence during his travels during this period. I then asked Gemini to describe Walpole's writing style and voice in detail. I took that summary and used it as a source for NotebookLM. I added audio notes that I created about our trip to Florence that I captured as I reviewed our copious photos from the trip. I used those audio notes as a second source.
NotebookLM is my favorite AI tool because the chatbot responses are entirely grounded on the sources provided. I could be sure that my experiences would be reflected in the output.
I then prompted NotebookLM to reimagine my audio notes in the style of Horace Walpole.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
First Draft (and Somewhat Long-Winded Version) of A Letter Inspired by Walpole
How did this first attempt turn out? Let's explore the first draft of an 18th century recap of my very modern adventure in Florence...
My dearest friend,
I write to you from Florence, this city of such renown and artistic splendor, having arrived by a most expeditious train from Bologna. The journey was a mere trifle, less than half an hour, and thanks to a most fortuitous offer, our tickets cost us a pittance! I assure you, less than 30 dollars for the both of us, though alas, the seats were not assigned.
We have taken lodgings in a charming Airbnb on the Via Delle Ruote, within walking distance of all the sights. I must confess, the price of €110 per night seems a touch extravagant, but such is the cost of convenience.
Our first foray into the city led us to the Mercato Centrale, a bustling hive of culinary delights. Upon ascending to the upper floor, we were met with a dazzling array of food and drink vendors, reminiscent of the Time Out Market in Lisbon.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
The air was thick with the aroma of freshly baked goods and the lively chatter of the Florentines. We indulged in a delicate pistachio financier, a true morsel of heaven, accompanied by a pair of aperitivo cocktails, one a symphony of passionfruit, the other a delightful blend of lemon and strawberry.
Of course, one cannot visit Italy without partaking in the divine pizza, and we were not disappointed. The dough, fresh from the oven, the tomato sauce, bursting with flavor, the basil, fragrant and verdant, and the mozzarella, oh, the mozzarella! It was a feast for the senses.
Afterward, we strolled through the heart of the city, marveling at the architectural wonders that adorn every corner. My eye was drawn to a peculiar building, its facade adorned with a menagerie of sculpted animals, including a most curious turtle. We passed by the Duomo and Campanile, their white and green patterned facade a sight to behold.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
Early the next morning, before the sun had fully awakened, we found ourselves drawn to the Palazzo Vecchio. The Statue of David, though but a copy, stood guard outside, its imposing presence transporting me back to Florence's golden age of art.
The adjacent Loggia dei Lanzi beckoned with its gallery of sculptures, each a masterpiece in its own right. I find that the early hours are the most enchanting for exploration, as the crowds are yet to descend upon the city.
Using our Firenze Card, we secured an early entry to the Uffizi Gallery. The ornate ceilings, a testament to the artistry of a bygone era, stretched above a long hallway lined with sculptures and portraits, each a window into the heyday of Florentine art.
The gallery was relatively tranquil upon our arrival at half past eight, but by half past nine, it was teeming with visitors, all eager to catch a glimpse of Botticelli's famed Venus on the half shell. Despite the crush of humanity, the sight of this spectacular work was well worth the effort.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
I would recommend allocating no less than two to three hours to fully appreciate the art, the sculpture, and the sheer beauty of the Uffizi Gallery.
If fortune smiles upon you with clement weather, I highly recommend a photographic ramble through the city. Lose yourself in the labyrinthine alleyways, and you will be rewarded with glimpses of iconic landmarks, such as the Duomo and Campanile, rising majestically above the rooftops.
Near the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, we stumbled upon a curious exhibition of modern art, a parade of figures fashioned from the most mundane of objects - vacuum cleaners, gas masks, fishing nets - a fascinating contrast to the historical grandeur of the setting.
We sought refuge from the midday sun in the cloisters and sun-drenched courtyards of the Museo di San Marco. The artwork here took on a more spiritual tone, transporting us to a realm of religious contemplation.
We even ascended to the upper level, once the abode of monks, and marveled at the intricate wooden ceilings, a testament to the craftsmanship of centuries past. This is a museum we might have overlooked were it not for the inclusion in our Firenze Card, and I am most grateful for the serendipitous discovery.
Italian cuisine is, of course, renowned throughout the world, and Florence is no exception. We dined at a charming trattoria near our Airbnb, Trattoria Pizzeria San Gallo, and were treated to a symphony of flavors: fresh pasta with meat sauce, creamy risotto, and beef in a delectable peppercorn sauce. All of this was accompanied by a robust Italian red wine, a fitting complement to the culinary delights.
The Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze, home to Michelangelo's David, proved to be a highlight of our artistic pilgrimage. The sheer size of the sculpture is awe-inspiring, and it stands proudly in a light-filled domed chamber.
I found myself utterly captivated by the grandeur of this masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance. Be sure to circumnavigate the sculpture, admiring its masculine form from every angle.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
The Accademia is a relatively compact museum, allowing for a leisurely exploration in about an hour without feeling rushed. In addition to the David, there were several unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo, seemingly emerging from their marble prisons, offering a glimpse into the creative process of this artistic titan.
I urge you to make time for the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, a treasure trove of artistic and architectural delights. The gardens offer a tranquil escape from the bustle of the city, and during our visit, we encountered a curious juxtaposition: a modern art installation featuring a rhythmic drumbeat alongside classical sculptures.
There was also an extensive exhibition dedicated to the myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, a tale of love, tragedy, and Greek mythology brought to life through a stunning array of artwork. The Palazzo itself is a masterpiece, with dazzling silver chandeliers, intricately carved ceilings, and magnificent wall hangings. One cannot help but be awestruck by the opulence and grandeur of this historical gem.
Alas, the queue for the Duomo at half past ten in the morning was so formidable that we deemed it prudent to forgo the experience. The Mercato Centrale during daylight hours is a feast for the senses, with butchers displaying their finest cuts of meat, vendors overflowing with fresh fruits and vegetables, and an abundance of cheeses and wines to tempt the palate.
Even if your stomach is not rumbling, it is a prime location for capturing the vibrant energy of the market through the lens of your camera. The surrounding area, however, is somewhat overrun with tourist trinkets and souvenirs, a reminder that even in this city of art and culture, commerce reigns supreme.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
The Palazzo Vecchio is a must-see, its golden ceiling tiles adorned with breathtaking painted scenes, and its halls filled with dramatic Renaissance sculptures. Do not miss the Studiolo di Francesco I, a tiny alcove dating back to 1572, covered in exquisite paintings and crowned with a golden domed ceiling, itself a work of art. Be forewarned, access to the studio is limited, so be prepared to endure a queue.
I was particularly enchanted by an enormous globe, glimpsed through an ornate doorway, surrounded by murals. Upon closer inspection, I was even more impressed by the historical maps that lined the walls of this gallery, a testament to the cartographic knowledge of the era.
Beyond the exhibits, the Palazzo Vecchio offers the opportunity to ascend its tower, affording breathtaking views over the square below, the Duomo, and other Florentine landmarks. Armed with your camera, you can capture the panorama of the city and the surrounding countryside.
During our visit, the courtyard on the ground floor was unexpectedly closed, but we soon discovered the reason: a procession of Florentines in Renaissance garb, accompanied by music and fanfare, paraded through the Palazzo. By sheer chance, we found ourselves with front-row seats to this spectacle of pomp and circumstance.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
The Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, a 15th-century Dominican church, is another architectural gem. Within its hallowed halls, you will discover stunning frescoes, both on the walls and the ceilings, and a labyrinth of cloisters to explore. The altar, surrounded by masterpieces of religious art, is a sight to behold.
For those with a sweet tooth, I recommend a visit to Caffe Lietta, a charming cafe where we partook in a morning cappuccino and a delectable cake filled with mascarpone and chocolate, adorned with nuts. The array of flavors was overwhelming, from exotic gwonducha to salted caramel and blueberry cheesecake. The specialty cakes were simply divine, and the ambiance of the cafe, with its profusion of flowers and quaint Italian charm, added to the overall delight.
The Galileo Museum is a must for any aficionado of science. In addition to the scientific instruments and apparatus that Galileo himself might have employed, the museum offers stunning views over the river from its windows.
One exhibit, both intriguing and slightly macabre, showcases a relic of the great scientist: one of Galileo's fingers, preserved in a glass case with golden embellishments. It was a rather surreal experience to be in such close proximity to a historical genius, even if only a fragment thereof.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
After immersing ourselves in the world of science, we crossed the Ponte Vecchio, the medieval stone bridge lined with jewelry shops, and sought sustenance at Trattoria Borgo Antico on Piazza Santo Spirito.
The sun was shining, even in March, and we were able to dine al fresco, enjoying a delightful white pizza topped with shredded zucchini. It paired perfectly with a carafe of fizzy white Italian wine and a refreshing spinach salad with shaved parmesan.
Palazzo Pitti, a sprawling Renaissance palace and art gallery, was our next destination. While the interior of the palace is impressive, the extensive gardens behind it are truly breathtaking. Be prepared for a climb, as the gardens are situated on a slope, but the effort is rewarded with panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside.
We exited the gardens near Forte di Belvedere and, rather than retracing our steps back to the palace, continued our ascent to Giardino Bardini, another impressive garden complex built into the hillside. As it was aperitivo hour, we paused for refreshment, indulging in a Negroni while overlooking the gardens and the cityscape of Florence beyond. The Duomo and other Florentine landmarks were visible in the distance, offering yet another stunning vista.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
For a truly romantic experience, I suggest watching the sunset over the Arno River from Terzo Giardino. The wispy clouds framing the city's landmarks, their reflections shimmering in the water, create a scene of unparalleled beauty, a feast for the eyes and the soul.
The Medici Chapels, with their opulent decorations and the tombs of the Medici family, are a testament to the power and influence of this dynasty. The New Sacristy, a work by Michelangelo himself, is particularly noteworthy.
If you seek a decadent treat and are unconcerned with inflated prices, I recommend Procacci, a wine bar and coffee shop with a distinct ambiance of dark wood and glass countertops laden with Italian delicacies. We sampled chocolate-dipped macarons and a rich cappuccino, but the cafe is particularly renowned for its truffle sandwiches, a truly luxurious indulgence.
For a taste of modern art, Strozzi Palace hosts rotating exhibitions that change every few months.
The Giunti Odeon, a unique establishment that combines a cinema and a bookstore, is another Florentine gem. We browsed the bookshelves, admiring the architecture, including a spectacular stained-glass dome, and even caught snippets of short films playing on a screen.
There was a small seating area below, and we ascended to the balcony for a bird's-eye view of the space. While most of the books were in Italian, I managed to procure an English-language volume entitled "The Botticelli Secret," a souvenir of my time in this city of art.
The Museo Nazionale del Bargello, with its impressive courtyard and galleries filled with Renaissance sculptures, including Donatello's David, is another cultural treasure worth exploring.
Our culinary journey culminated with a memorable dinner at L’ortone, where we savored hearty Tuscan cuisine, including a delicate spaghetti dish with fresh tomatoes, basil, and a sprinkle of cheese, as well as succulent chicken and grilled beef.
From our table on the upper floor, we had a glimpse into the kitchen, where the chefs were expertly preparing our meal. The evening concluded with a digestif, a purple Amaro Viola, a fitting end to a delightful repast.
On our final day in Florence, we ascended the Campanile, a climb not included in the Firenze Card but well worth the effort. We were fortunate to have clear skies, ensuring panoramic views of the city.
Arriving early, around half past eight in the morning, we climbed to the top of the bell tower, reveling in the golden views that stretched out in every direction. We observed those climbing the Duomo, their platform seemingly more crowded than ours, and I congratulated myself on our choice of ascent.
Descending from the Campanile, we visited the Battistero di San Giovanni, which, sadly, was undergoing renovations during our visit. Nonetheless, the gilded ceiling, adorned with religious iconography, and the mosaic tiled scenes were impressive. As an admirer of doors, I made sure to inspect the Gates of Paradise, a gilded masterpiece that adorns the building.
We also made time for the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo di Firenze, admiring its collection of artwork and enjoying spectacular views over the Duomo from its rooftop terrace.
Before bidding farewell to Florence, we procured a parting gift from Il Cantuccio di San Lorenzo: hand-cut, homemade biscotti. Through the window, we observed the preparation of these iconic Italian cookies, a final glimpse into the culinary traditions of this city.
While we arrived in Florence by train from Bologna, our departure was by air, a direct flight from Florence to Lisbon. The city's convenient tram system whisked us from the city center to the airport in approximately 30 minutes.
Florence is undeniably a city of immense popularity among tourists. I am grateful that our visit took place in March, as the crowds, while substantial, were manageable. I shudder to imagine the throngs of humanity that must descend upon the city during the peak summer season.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
While I do believe that a visit to Florence is a worthwhile endeavor, I would caution against an extended stay during the high season, lest one become overwhelmed by the sheer volume of fellow travelers.
Our week-long sojourn in Florence afforded us the opportunity for a day trip to the Tuscan countryside. As ardent admirers of wine, we opted for a half-day tour, our first stop being Tenuta Barbadoro, an idyllic winery nestled amidst rolling hills and vineyards.
One of the owners guided us through the property, allowing us to capture the beauty of the region with our cameras. We sampled several of their wines, including an organic rosé and an organic Chianti, each a testament to the terroir.
Our second stop was Casa di Monte, a slightly larger producer. We toured the winery, fascinated by the juxtaposition of the massive stainless steel fermentation tanks and the picturesque vineyards beyond. Here, we tasted three different wines, accompanied by delicious garlic bread, cheeses, and charcuterie.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
With our taste buds satiated and our bellies full, we boarded our mid-sized bus for the return journey to Florence. If time permits, I wholeheartedly recommend venturing into the Tuscan wine region, a sensory delight that will surely captivate your palate and your soul.
In summation, Florence is a city of undeniable beauty, art, and culture, but one that is best enjoyed outside of the peak tourist season, lest the crowds detract from the experience. I bid you adieu, my friend, and hope that this account of my Florentine adventures has provided you with both entertainment and enlightenment.
Yours in friendship,
A Traveler in Time
AI Iteration
I asked Gemini for a critique of the first draft output from NotebookLM and learned that NotebookLM hadn't quite hit the mark. I then fed the critique into NotebookLM as a source and asked for a revised draft.
Second (and more concise!) Draft of A Letter Inspired by Walpole
The second attempt was a bit closer to the 18th century Grand Tour correspondence style inspired by Walpole, don't you think?
My Dearest Friend,
I write to you from Florence, a city celebrated for its artistic opulence, though I confess, the throngs of travelers crowding its cobbled streets and grand galleries can be a touch overwhelming. Having arrived posthaste by train from Bologna – a journey, I assure you, swifter than a gossipmonger’s whisper – we found ourselves deposited amidst a sea of selfie-stick wielding tourists.
Our lodgings, a charming (if somewhat exorbitantly priced) Airbnb on the Via Delle Ruote, provided a welcome respite from the clamor of the city. Yet, even within the hallowed halls of the Uffizi Gallery, we found ourselves jostling for position to glimpse Botticelli's Venus, that paragon of feminine beauty.
The crowds, my dear friend, were akin to a swarm of bees, buzzing about the honeycomb of artistic treasures. I confess, a touch of melancholy crept into my soul, as I observed the frenzy of picture-taking, obscuring the very art it sought to capture.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
Ah, but let us not dwell on the horrors of modern tourism! For Florence, despite the relentless tide of visitors, still retains its allure. The Duomo, with its majestic dome, soared above the city, a beacon of architectural grandeur. And within the Palazzo Vecchio, those gilded ceilings and dramatic Renaissance sculptures transported me back to Florence’s glorious past.
I must confess, a frisson of excitement ran down my spine as we stumbled upon a peculiar exhibition of modern art within the Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Imagine, my dear friend, a parade of figures fashioned from the most mundane objects – vacuum cleaners, gas masks, fishing nets – a curious (and slightly macabre) juxtaposition against the backdrop of classical sculptures. Such whimsical displays serve as a reminder that even amidst the weight of history, a spark of modernity can ignite the imagination.
Speaking of the macabre, the Galileo Museum provided a most intriguing encounter. There, amidst the scientific instruments and apparatus, we beheld a relic of the great scientist himself – one of Galileo’s fingers, preserved in a glass case. A sight both fascinating and slightly repulsive, it served as a reminder of the ephemeral nature of human existence, even for those who reach the pinnacle of intellectual achievement.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
Our culinary adventures, I assure you, were a symphony of flavors. From delicate pistachio financiers at the Mercato Centrale to hearty Tuscan cuisine at L'ortone, our palates were tantalized by the culinary artistry of Florence. And of course, no visit to Italy would be complete without indulging in the divine pizza. The dough, fresh from the oven, the tomato sauce bursting with flavor, the mozzarella, oh, the mozzarella! It was a feast for the senses.
As our time in Florence drew to a close, we ascended the Campanile, a climb not for the faint of heart, but one that rewarded us with golden views over the city. From this lofty vantage point, we could see the crowds teeming below, a reminder of the vastness of human curiosity and the enduring allure of this timeless city.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
Florence, my dear friend, is a city of contrasts: ancient and modern, serene and chaotic, breathtakingly beautiful and undeniably crowded. Yet, despite its imperfections, it remains a destination that captures the imagination and stirs the soul.
Yours in friendship,
A Traveler in Time
AI Iteration Rounds 2 and 3
Draft 3 - The Most "Walpolian"
Even though this may be closest to the literary mark, I'm not as wild about this last version. It's a little too dark and pessimistic. Maybe that's just who Walpole was, or an AI generated caricature of who he was. Let's take a look.
My dearest friend,
I write to you from Florence, this city of such renown and artistic splendor, but alas, what was once a haven for the discerning traveler is now overrun by a sea of selfie-stick wielding tourists, all jostling for position to capture the perfect Instagrammable moment.
The very air seems thick with the scent of overpriced gelato and the incessant clicking of cameras, a symphony of modern tourism that assaults the senses.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
Our lodgings are in a charming Airbnb on the Via Delle Ruote, conveniently situated within walking distance of all the sights. I confess, the price of €110 per night seems a touch extravagant, but such is the cost of dodging the horrors of budget travel.
We began our explorations at the Mercato Centrale, a bustling hive of culinary delights, where we indulged in a delicate pistachio financier and a pair of aperitivo cocktails.
Of course, one cannot visit Italy without partaking in the divine pizza, and we were not disappointed. Ah, but let us not dwell on such mundane matters as food and drink.
Our artistic pilgrimage led us to the Uffizi Gallery, where the crowds, like a swarm of locusts, descended upon Botticelli's Venus, their frenzy of picture-taking reaching a fever pitch. I confess, a touch of melancholy crept into my soul as I observed this decline of true curiosity, for in this very city, Galileo once gazed at the heavens, seeking answers to the mysteries of the universe.
Imagine, my dear friend, what he would make of this modern-day spectacle? His finger, preserved in the Galileo Museum as a relic of his genius, must surely lament the transformation of Florence into a mere backdrop for selfies.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
The Palazzo Vecchio, with its golden ceiling tiles and dramatic Renaissance sculptures, offered a welcome respite from the tourist hordes. Yet even here, amidst the grandeur of a bygone era, I could not shake the feeling of unease, a haunting presence that seemed to linger in the shadowy corners.
Perhaps it was the ghost of a Medici, lamenting the decline of their once-powerful dynasty? Or perhaps it was merely the chill of the ancient stones, a reminder of the fleeting nature of power and glory.
From the heights of the Campanile, we surveyed the panorama of Florence, the Duomo and other landmarks rising majestically above the rooftops. Yet even this breathtaking vista was marred by the incessant chatter of tourists, their voices echoing through the narrow streets like the cries of the damned.
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| AI generated image created with Canva Magic Studio |
Ah, Florence, Florence! A city of such beauty and artistry, yet one that is now suffocating under the weight of its own popularity. I fear that the true spirit of Florence is being lost amidst the ostentatious displays of wealth and the absurdity of modern-day tourism.
I bid you adieu, my friend, and hope that you will not succumb to the siren song of the selfie stick, but rather seek out the true treasures of Florence, those that lie hidden beneath the surface of the tourist throngs.
Yours in friendship,
A traveler in time.
Where and When Shall We Go Next?
I've been enjoying looking at my modern travels through the lens of history. Where shall we head next?
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