Are you looking for a unique and festive holiday escape in Spain? Let me share my experience celebrating New Year's Eve in the heart of Andalusia. Let's go to the sun-drenched city of Jerez de la Frontera, where I spent the end of year holidays.
With this personal travel retrospective, I'll objectively share my experiences, insights, and tips to help you plan your own road trip adventure in this part of the world.
What is a Travel Retrospective?
Retrospectives are a concept popularized by the discipline of Site Reliability Engineering (my day job), but with concepts that can easily be applied to other areas of life beyond computer systems. Have a listen to my work friends jtr and Sue on the Hindsight Retros podcast to go deep on this subject.
A travel retrospective covers: the timeline of events, what went well, what could have gone better, where did we get lucky, and what will we do differently next time.
I did a travel retrospective when my husband was injured on a trip to Croatia. Now, I'm going to apply to concepts to a trip that went well. The goal is to drive a cycle of continuous improvement and help conclude: was Jerez de la Frontera worth visiting on a New Year's Eve trip?
Trip Summary
Our Jerez Road Trip Itinerary
Here’s a peek at our 2 week road trip with a focus on Jerez de la Frontera.
- December 23: Embarked on our road trip from Lisbon. We opted to break up the journey with a 3-night stay at the Algarve's Domes Lake Resort hotel.
- December 24-25: Explored the stunning Algarve coastline, enjoyed some Christmas Eve festivities at our hotel, and indulged in delicious meals (including Christmas Eve dinner at the hotel's Topos Restaurant).
- December 26: Journeyed to Jerez de la Frontera and settled into our Airbnb.
- December 27: Familiarized ourselves with Jerez's rich culture with a long walk around the city and a Michelin-starred dinner.
- December 28: Escaped to the lovely white hill town of Arcos de la Frontera.
- December 29: Enjoyed a leisurely day in Jerez, discovering hidden gems and soaking up the festive atmosphere.
- December 30: Took a memorable train trip to the coastal city of Cádiz.
- December 31: Returned to Jerez to ring in the New Year.
- January 1: Relaxed in Jerez and, unfortunately, missed a planned sherry and chocolate tasting due to a holiday closure at Bodegas Fundador.
- January 2: Drove to the delightful hilltop towns of Vejer de la Frontera and Conil de la Frontera.
- January 3: Explored El Puerto de Santa Maria then spent our final afternoon in Jerez, attending a sherry tasting at the historic Lustau bodega. We finished the day by attending a Flamenco show at Puro Arte.
- January 4: Embarked on the return drive to Lisbon, stopping for a night at the 5-star Pestana Pousada Estoi Palace.
- January 5: Enjoyed a filling breakfast at the hotel and began the last leg of our drive back to Lisbon.
What Went Well?
Summary
Great Weather: We had glorious sunshine throughout our trip, with daytime temperatures peaking at a pleasant 16-20°C. The warm weather allowed us to comfortably explore Jerez and the surrounding area.
Gastronomic Delights: From delectable tapas and traditional Spanish sweets to Michelin-starred dining experiences, our trip to Jerez was filled with amazing flavors. The highlight was undoubtedly our dinner at Mantúa, a Michelin-starred gem. The 17-course tasting menu with drinks pairings was an absolute masterpiece!
Cultural Immersion: Jerez and its surrounding towns pulsated with history, culture, and tradition. Exploring ancient ruins, strolling through charming squares, and witnessing a lively Christmas parade added an extra layer of richness to our experience.
Drinking Sherry: Immersing ourselves in the world of sherry was a true highlight. We toured historic bodegas, got acquainted with the fascinating Solera aging system, and savored a delightful array of sherry varieties. The sherry tasting at Lustau was exceptional, where we sipped five different sherries and a vermouth in the atmospheric barrel aging rooms.
The Details
The weather gods shined on our trip to Jerez and the Algarve and we had unbelievably good weather! We had sunshine every day, with temperatures around 16–20°C during the day.
Because it never rained, we were able to really enjoy all of the outdoor activities, from exploring various towns to having lunch and drinks outside.
Our trip started with a spectacular sunset from our room at the Domes Lake Autograph Collection Hotel by Marriott in Vilamoura. When we got to our room, there was a fruit plate and bottle of wine waiting for us, which was a nice touch!
We had Christmas Eve dinner at Topos Restaurant at the hotel, and they even had live music, which made it extra special. On Christmas Day, we went for a long walk (about 45 minutes one way) along the coast from Quarteira back to Vilamoura.
When we got back to our room, we were delighted to find a mini Bolo Rei (a traditional Portuguese Christmas cake) and a gift of a candle and some orange-scented room spray. I have lifetime gold status with Marriott and they treat their loyal members well!
We loved all the food on our trip. We had tons of chances to relax and enjoy tapas, sherry, and local desserts. One of the best meals was at the Michelin-starred Mantúa in Jerez—we had a 17-course tasting menu with drinks pairings, and it was incredible! We also managed to squeeze into the crowded Tabanco Plateros for a sherry tasting platter with cheese which was another highlight of the trip.
In Vilamoura we had sushi and cocktails at the hotel bar, where there was more live music. When we were in Cádiz, we tried chicharrones (fried pork fat—so good!) at the Mercado and tapas for lunch at Cumbres Mayores.
We took a day trip to the charming town of Arcos de la Frontera. While we were there, I successfully purchased sweets from the sisters at the Convento de la Encarnación, which was a fun experience.
We had to ring a bell and then put our money into a revolving wooden chamber. When the chamber rotated back around, it was loaded with a box of handmade treats made from almonds, walnuts, and sugar. They tasted a little like marzipan.
We had lunch al fresco in Arcos de la Frontera at a place called Taberna Jóvenes Flamencos.
We took the train to Cádiz, which was super easy, and we were impressed by all the Christmas decorations. We also went for a walk along the water. I love looking at interesting doors, and we saw some amazing door knockers in Cádiz, including a pair of life-sized Hands of Fatima!
Back in Jerez, we toured the cathedral and climbed the tower for great views of the town. We also visited the Alcázar de Jerez de la Frontera on a beautiful sunny day; the views were breathtaking!
We drove to Vejer de la Frontera, parking at the bottom of the hill to avoid the potential stress of driving on very narrow one way streets. This white hilltop town was so charming; we had fun just walking around taking pictures.
We enjoyed some cheese and a local white wine from the Tierra de Cádiz region at the Plaza de España, which had a beautiful colorful ceramic fountain. We also discovered lots of interesting art shops, which were perfect for souvenir hunting.
We stumbled upon a place called Casa del Mayorazgo, where we admired a beautiful patio and climbed the tower for views of Plaza de España. A man called Manolo had been tending to the beautiful garden housed within for over 50 years!
On our way back to Jerez, we stopped in Conil de la Frontera and walked through the Barrio de Pescadores, which was filled with picturesque narrow alleyways lined with plants in bright blue pots. It was a great idea to combine Vejer and Conil into a single day trip.
We had a fantastic dinner at La Carbona; it was such a good value! For only 75 EUR per person, we had a six-course menu with sherry pairings. The restaurant was located in an old sherry bodega, which had a really cool atmosphere. The portions were really big, and we were stuffed by the end.
We had some trouble finding parking, but we finally made it to El Puerto de Santa Maria. We really enjoyed walking around the town, and we were so happy to have found the Iglesia Mayor Prioral, which had storks nesting on the roof!
We also treated ourselves to some churros con chocolate, delicious! On a whim, we stopped by Bodega Osborne to use the restroom and ended up getting a free sherry brandy tasting! I liked it so much that I bought a bottle of Carlos I aged in Amontillado casks.
Back in Jerez, we went to a sherry tasting at Lustau, where we got to tour the barrel aging rooms and sample five sherries and a vermouth while touring the property.
On our way back to Lisbon from Jerez, we stopped in Estoi, a tiny town in the Algarve region of Portugal, which was a great halfway point. We stayed at the Pestana Pousada Palácio Estoi, which was a beautiful hotel with gorgeous salons and a garden.
We also took a short 15 minute walk to the Roman ruins of Milreu, where we saw some incredible mosaics featuring a variety of colorful fish.
What Could Have Been Better?
Summary
Holiday Closures: This was the biggest downside to our trip! We encountered several unexpected closures during the holidays, especially on New Year's Day. One of the most disappointing closures was our pre-booked sherry and chocolate tasting at Bodegas Fundador, which was closed despite having confirmed our reservation. Next time, we'll make sure to confirm opening hours with businesses directly, especially for holiday periods. It might even be worth calling ahead to double-check, just in case.
Rental Car Hiccups: We experienced some initial challenges with our Hertz rental car in Lisbon. They didn't have an automatic car available when we arrived, and the key fob had a low battery, requiring us to delay our departure by a few hours. Next time, we'll book a car at the airport instead of at a location in the city. Airport rental car outlets always have a better selection of cars.
New Year's Eve Festivities: We were disappointed with the New Year's Eve celebrations in Jerez, which were much smaller than expected and lacked the festive atmosphere we had anticipated. Everything seemed to shut down early, and the main square was practically deserted. Perhaps researching and booking a specific event (e.g., at a local restaurant) in advance would ensure a better experience next time.
Punting Our Trip to Gibraltar: We initially planned an overnight trip from Jerez to Gibraltar but bailed out the day before; opting to visit Cádiz for the day instead. After further research, it seemed like Gilbraltar would be more hassle than it's worth, especially considering the limited daylight hours in winter. We had concerns about long wait times at the border and difficulty finding parking. We also forgot to pack British power adapters and British pounds which would have been an added inconvenience for us. In hindsight, I'm glad we made this decision despite essentially punting the cost of the hotel for one night. Our overall trip was much more relaxed as a result.
The Details
Our trip had some hiccups. We had a frustrating experience with Hertz in Lisbon. They didn't have our automatic car ready at 11 am as promised, making us wait over an hour for a replacement to arrive from the airport.
To add insult to injury, the key fob had a low battery, and Hertz expected us to handle it ourselves, offering only reimbursement for the cost of the battery. Luckily, we had the right battery type at home, but this delay pushed our arrival in Vilamoura back to around sunset.
While the sunset views from our hotel room were stunning, it was disappointing to find many shops and restaurants closed around the Vilamoura harbor.
Our Airbnb in Jerez had a tricky location. The maze of narrow, one-way streets made driving stressful, and we missed out on experiencing the traditional Zambombas de Jerez since they ended on December 24th, a day before our arrival. Even our visit to the Alcázar de Jerez de la Frontera had a snag, as the camera obscura was closed for unknown reasons.
On New Year's Eve, we went out to Plaza de la Asunción at around 10 pm. We were surprised to find a DJ playing and very few people (less than 100 on the square).
There was also a large amount of empty cups and bottles strewn about. We soon learned the reason that folks had departed early. The makeshift bar that was set-up on the square had run out of basically all alcoholic beverages. We ended up going home and ringing in the new year back at our Airbnb.
Another inconvenience we encountered throughout Jerez and the surrounding towns was the lack of soap in many public restrooms, particularly in bars. Thankfully, we always carry hand sanitizer.
Although we enjoyed many wonderful meals, the flamenco show at Puro Arte didn't live up to our expectations. The performers were talented, but the show felt short and the costumes were underwhelming compared to a show we had seen in Seville the previous year when we visited Seville for Christmas.
Our stopover in Estoi, while convenient, felt very quiet, with few restaurants or activities available at this time of year. We were glad we had booked dinner at the hotel restaurant.
Where Did We Get Lucky?
Summary
Festive Parade: We stumbled upon an awesome Christmas parade in Jerez on December 26th, filled with music, floats, and even candy being thrown into the crowd! This unexpected encounter added a spontaneous touch of magic to our trip.
Christmas Treats: We were pleasantly surprised to find a mini Bolo Rei Portuguese Christmas cake and a thoughtful gift waiting for us in our hotel room at the Domes Lake Resort on Christmas Day. These unexpected gestures added a warm and personal touch to our holiday celebration.
Spontaneous Brandy Tasting: While visiting Bodega Osborne in El Puerto de Santa Maria, we ended up enjoying a complimentary sherry brandy tasting. This unexpected opportunity allowed us to discover and purchase a delicious bottle of Carlos I aged in Amontillado casks.
The Details
We had some really fortunate moments during our trip that added an extra layer of enjoyment to our adventures.
For starters, when the rental car key fob was running low on battery power in Lisbon, we were incredibly lucky to have the correct battery type at home. This meant we could replace it ourselves and get on the road much faster than if we had to hunt down a store.
Another stroke of luck came on Christmas Day at our hotel in Vilamoura. We usually leave the "Do Not Disturb" sign on our door, but this time we forgot. When we returned to our room, we were surprised with a delicious mini Bolo Rei Christmas cake and a lovely gift set!
In Jerez, we were wandering around when we stumbled upon a lively parade near Plaza del Arenal. It was a delightful surprise, full of music, colorful floats, and even candy thrown into the crowd. It made our exploration of Jerez even more festive. We learned from a local shopkeeper that this parade was so that children's Christmas letters could be taken to santa.
We were also lucky to squeeze into the popular Tabanco Plateros bar, which was packed with people. We managed to snag a spot and enjoyed a tasty sherry tasting platter with cheese, all while taking in the vibrant atmosphere.
We subsequently learned by trial and error that going to lunch between 1 and 1:30 was optimal. Places tended to be more crowded between 2-3 pm. Going a little early meant we could get a seat but before we knew it, we were in the middle of a buzzing local atmosphere. We especially enjoyed Tabanco San Pablo for sherry and tapas.
One of our luckiest moments happened in El Puerto de Santa Maria. We were about to head back to the car when we spotted the Iglesia Mayor Prioral in the distance.
We decided to take a short detour, and it was the best decision! We were rewarded with an incredible sight – dozens of storks nesting and preening on the church's rooftop.
We had another fortunate encounter when we stopped by Bodega Osborne, initially just to use the restroom. We took a quick peek in the gift shop and ended up having a fantastic free sherry brandy tasting, led by a very knowledgeable staff member. I even ended up buying a bottle!
Parking in El Puerto de Santa Maria was quite challenging, and we almost gave up on visiting the town entirely. But, after checking Google Maps and circling around one more time, we managed to find a parking spot on our second attempt. We were so glad we didn't give up, as we had a lovely time exploring the town.
Finally, in Vejer de la Frontera, we stumbled upon a hidden gem called Casa del Mayorazgo. The beautiful courtyard was a welcome surprise, and we even got to climb the tower for some amazing views overlooking Plaza de España.
All of these lucky moments truly enhanced our trip!
The Verdict? Is Jerez Worth Visiting for the Holidays?
Jerez de la Frontera is a bit of a mixed bag when it comes to Christmas and NYE travel. On the one hand, the city's charm, rich culture, warm hospitality, and delectable cuisine create a unique and memorable experience.
Jerez is also a great home base for exploring the Sherry Triangle and some of the white hilltop towns of Andalusia.
From exploring historic bodegas and savoring sherry to wandering through picturesque streets and witnessing festive traditions, Jerez offers a unique blend of relaxation and adventure.
However, the potential for holiday closures and less-than-vibrant New Year's Eve festivities might dampen the holiday spirit for some. If you're seeking a rowdy holiday atmosphere with non-stop activities, Jerez might not be the ideal choice.
Ultimately, whether or not Jerez is worth visiting for Christmas and New Year's Eve depends on your individual preferences and expectations. If you're willing to embrace a slower pace, plan around potential closures, and find joy in the city's unique charm, then Jerez can be a truly rewarding destination.
Just remember to pack your patience, flexibility, and a sense of adventure!
We spent the holidays the previous year based in Seville. If I had to choose between Seville and Jerez (having never visited either destination), I would most definitely recommend Seville for Christmas; perhaps with a day trip to Jerez de la Frontera and Cádiz baked into the itinerary.
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