Getting to Lisbon
We visited Portugal three times before moving here two of those trips were in December and timed to coincide with Christmas in Lisbon.Getting around in Lisbon
Where to Stay in Lisbon
We decided to rent an apartment for the week rather than stay at a hotel in Lisbon and we're so glad we did. We find that it's easier to pretend for a moment that we're locals when we rent a place like this rather than staying at hotels like the usual Marriott or Sheraton.🔎 SIDEWALK SAFARI SPOTLIGHT: Portugal is one of my favorite countries to explore. Spend 3 days in Porto for a relaxing weekend break anytime of year.
Pro tip: stay in Vila Nova de Gaia to be close to the historic port cellars and easy access to the best Porto day trips like Coimbra, Portugal's historic university city.
Head to the Algarve in winter for an off-season adventure.
Alternatively, you could fly to Madeira for a weekend. Madeira is an island full of surprises with great food.
Things to do on a Lisbon Christmas Itinerary
Getting Our Bearings in Lisbon
We went for an evening walk through the cobbled streets of Mouraria (our new 'neighborhood') to get our bearings when we first arrived in Lisbon. We noticed a series of photos posted along the narrow and winding Beco das Farinhas. A plaque said:A Tribute by Camilla Watson. The photographs on these walls are a tribute to the elderly who live here. They walk this beco daily and their spirit makes this corner of Mouraria special.I thought that was simply a lovely sentiment. The Mouraria neighborhood is pretty hilly with all sorts of winding staircases and nooks and crannies.
We wandered down to the main road and caught a glimpse of Lisbon's tram. The city was already starting to remind me of San Francisco and especially the Barbary Coast Trail. I kept thinking back to the F-Market street car rattling around town.
Dinner from São Tomé and Príncipe
We stopped for dinner at a restaurant in our neighborhood run by a family from São Tomé and Príncipe in Africa. The place was really small and homey feeling and was actually pretty crowded for a weeknight so we had a feeling this would be a good meal.🔎SIDEWALK SAFARI SPOTLIGHT: The Christmas season in Europe is a great time to travel. Here are some of my favorite Christmas travel destinations.
- Have you considered visiting great Christmas markets in 7 different countries?
- How about spending Christmas in Belgium (or more specifically Christmas in Bruges)?
- Visit Germany and eat your way through the Berlin Christmas Markets; the Berlin Christmas Markets are also especially photogenic so bring your camera. Spend Christmas in Stuttgart Germany and explore the Black Forest region.
- Travel to France and Alsace for a fabulous Christmas in Strasbourg.
- Why not visit the most popular Christmas Market in Germany: Christkindlmarkt in Nuremberg. Alternatively, get off the beaten track at nearby Regensburg Christmas Markets.
- Have you been to the Christmas Markets of North-Rhine Westphalia? They are just a hop, skip, and a jump from Dusseldorf or Cologne and perfect for a winter Ryanair weekend.
- Want to experience the best place to celebrate Christmas in Spain? Discover all the amazing places to eat in Bilbao. Spend Christmas in Granada and ring in the New Year in Malaga.
- Eat thirteen desserts while celebrating Christmas in Provence.
Baixa
ViniPortugal
It was raining pretty hard so we sought a place where we could relax and wait out the storm. We found it at ViniPortugal, a venue that showcases Portuguese wines with free tastings.More of Baixa and Cherry Brandy
As we emerged from ViniPortugal, a bit of blue was beginning to peek through the clouds. We stopped to have a look at Vasco da Gama's likeness sculpted into the arch framing the plaza.Rossio Square and Lisbon's Christmas Markets
From here, we walked to Rossio station, a fine example of neo-Manueline architecture. We admired a rainbow over the Praça do Rossio (Rossio Square) and wound our way down a side street nearby to conjure up lunch.Do Your Christmas Shopping at Lisbon's Lojas Das Historias
A Christmas Sunset Over Praça do Comércio
Walking the Alfama
We took an extended walk to Lisbon's Alfama neighborhood and detoured up the hill to see the castle (Castelo de São Jorge). Once again, the streets were narrow and winding with laundry saluting us from every terrace.Supposedly, the castle looks authentic, but it's not authentic anymore. Flags waved at us from above and invited us to climb up on the turrets. We found the drawbridge and went inside.
Christmas in Lisbon
We were in Lisbon for Christmas. One thing we noticed (in the Algarve and Lisbon) is that the Portuguese love to hang Santa on the outside of their apartments. We saw one example dangling from a drainpipe and there were many, many more.Christmas Shopping in Saldanha
The Campo Pequeno Christmas Market
See Fado
Catching a Fado performance is a 'must do' in Lisbon.Explore Lisbon by Tram
Tram 28E is the perfect way to sample all that Lisbon has to offer. For 3.00 EUR, you can ride through the Alfama, Bairro Alto and beyond.Celebrate Christmas Eve Dinner in Lisbon
In Portugal, the traditional Christmas dinner takes place on Christmas Eve. Most people spend time at home with family, but select restaurants are open. We dined at Hotel Inspira.Lisbon on Christmas Day
One of the challenges of being on vacation over Christmas is that many things are closed on Christmas Day.Lisbon’s Elevadors
On our last day in Lisbon, we realized that we hadn't taken some of the modes of transportation for which the city is famous. We set out to correct that by taking Elevador da Glória from Rossio to Bairro Alto.We reflected on our trip while enjoying sweeping views. We walked back down the hill following the same track at the elevador. Displays of street art line the path. Even the local stray kitties seemed to be appraising the art.
Before we knew it, it was time to head to the airport. We hopped on the infamous Tram 28E one last time and returned to our apartment to pick up our luggage and say goodbye to Portugal. We had a fantastic time and I attribute that great travel experience to catalyzing our decision to move to Lisbon.
How to Spend New Years Eve in Lisbon?
Day Trips from Lisbon at Christmas
Day Trip from Lisbon to Belém
Another quintessential experience in Lisbon is taking a day trip to Belém.We could see the Torre de Belém in the distance. Did you know that Belem Tower is a UNESCO World Heritage Site? I liked the view of Prince Henry from above looking out over the water.
Our next stop was the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a fine example of Manueline architecture. On Sunday mornings, entrance to the cloister is free.
Our next stop was of the tastier variety. We stopped at Pasteis de Belém to try the famous egg custard tarts. We enjoyed our treat while steeping in the neighborhood views.
We ate lunch at Queijadas de Belém, a local cafe. We enjoyed the dish of the day (turkey with rice and salad) and a glass of wine on the cheap. It's a nice economical option for lunch and the service was very good.
We passed the Palácio Nacional de Belém, the official residence of the president of Portugal. We even witnessed the changing of the guard.
Our final stop in Belém was the Maritime Museum (Museu da Marinha). We especially enjoyed the maps and artifacts from the Age of Discovery.
We took the tram back to Lisbon and decided to head to Parque Eduardo VII. After a steep uphill climb from Praça do Marquês de Pombal, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the park and bay.
A Bus Trip to Évora
We left the square and walked to the town hall. It's free to enter during business hours and you can catch a glimpse of excavated Roman baths. The Roman aqueduct is one of the key attractions in Évora. We passed a Roman arch which was once a main gate into the town wall.
Our final stop of the day was the M.C. Escher exhibit at the Fundação Eugenio de Almeida. For 1 euro each, we were able to see some of the finest (not to mention trippy) masterpieces from M.C. Escher.
Day Trip to Sintra
Option 1: Sintra Day Trip to Castelo dos Mouros and Palácio da Pena
Option 2: A Quiet Photowalk on Christmas Eve
We visited Sintra twice on different trips to Portugal. You could easily do the Lisbon to Sintra day trip more than once and it would be entirely new each time.
The second time we visited, we drove into Sintra. Beware: driving and parking in Sintra can be harrowing. I got over the trauma of extremely narrow roads seemingly hewn from the rocks with a slice of Christmas cake and a glass of wine.
When you are in Lisbon for Christmas, the timing of your day trips is super important. Some shops are open until mid afternoon on Christmas Eve.
However, all of the the tourist attractions in Sintra are closed. We made the most of it anyway and admired sights like Sintra National Palace from outside.
We took an atmospheric walk up the hill to Quinta da Regaleira. The place is just dripping in gothic detail. Apparently Madonna owns the place next door.
If you want, you can hire a tuk-tuk to take you around Sintra on a guided tour. We chose to proceed on foot. A lunch of traditional cheese and honey, bacalhao, and mushrooms at Villa 6 washed down with a glass of white wine was a perfect winter warmer.
Pick up a couple Queijadas de Sintra and other local treats at Queijadas da Sapa. Queijadas de Sintra are sweet cheese and egg tarts with a paper thin pastry crust.
Even though tourist attractions are closed on Christmas Eve, I recommend taking a quiet photo walk. I was personally loving the dramatic doors all around Sintra. Many of the beautiful doors of Sintra are accented by colorful tiles on the wall.
Option 3: Quinta da Regaleira and Monserrate Palace
A third option for a Lisbon to Sintra day trip involves taking the bus to two of Sintra's storied palaces. All aboard Scotturb 435 which stops at 4 different palaces in Sintra!
We paid 5 EUR per person to ride this single route all day. Pay 11 EUR for all routes if you want to combine the attractions in Option 1 and this one into a single mega-day trip.
It was raining pretty hard when we visited, so just went for one route. Note: Scotturb 435 only runs once an hour.
We had a grand time exploring Quinta da Regaleira. We started with a climb to the top of the hill and the Initiation Well. Climb down the nine ceremonial landings separated by 15 steps each which are believed to have ties to Masonic rituals.
The original owner of the property was a known freemason.
Get lost exploring all the winding paths, gardens, fountains, caves, and grottoes at Quinta da Regaleira. The grounds of Quinta da Regaleira were beautiful despite the rain that plagued our visit.
Bring a flashlight if you wander into the labrynthine grotto at Quinta da Regaleira, a very cool, albeit dark, place to wander around.
Finish with a self-guided tour of the palace at Quinta da Regaleira. Keep an eye open for some amazing architectural details and some of Sintra's best doors. It costs 10 EUR per person to visit Quinta da Regaleira.
You could easily spend at least half a day at Quinta da Regaleira exploring the gardens at a leisurely pace, so it's not a bad value in my opinion.
Onward to the Park and Palace of Monserrate which costs 8 EUR per person to enter. We found lots of cool flowers in the gardens at Monserrate even in December.
We appreciated the chance to walk around and explore the late 19th century Monserrate Palace which featured Moorish motifs throughout.
The tree growing out of the chapel at Monserrate Palace and Gardens reminded me of the temples at Angkor in Cambodia.
Take the bus back to Sintra train station and pop into Alba for some gelato. White coffee and guanduja scoops hit the spot.
SIDEWALK SAFARI SPOTLIGHT: Perhaps you are interested in exploring a hidden gem that is technically in Sintra but a little closer to Lisbon. I recommend visiting Queluz Palace, the sumptuous 18th century home of Portuguese royalty. |
Cascais for a Day
Cascais is another excellent Lisbon day trip, or you can visit directly from Sintra. It takes about 30 minutes to drive from Sintra to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in Continental Europe en route from Sintra to Cascais.
Getting out of Sintra on narrow one way roads with sharp switchbacks is the hardest part. We discovered great road quality through Sintra Natural Park approaching Cabo da Roca. It was very foggy on the drive in, but clear seaside. We took a brief walk from the lighthouse along the cliffs looking out into the Atlantic.
Continuing on from Cabo da Roca to Cascais, we made a quick stop near Fortaleza do Guincho to admire the fortress turned 5-star hotel and watch the crashing ocean waves. There are bike and walking path runs alongside the road and sand dunes if you want to turn this into a longer stop.
Upon arrival in Cascais, we parked in a metered spot (4 hours max) near Boca do Inferno (cost about 3 EUR for 4 hours) and walked from there along the coast into Cascais.
Before heading into town, take a moment to find out how Boca do Inferno got its name by watching the waves crash in through a small opening in the rocks.
We spotted Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães in the distance and walked over for a closer look. The palace appeared to have a moat.
It turns out that there is a staircase down to a small beach which is mostly sand with some water trickling under the bridge with the tides. Of course, Cascais is known for beautiful beaches. I learned after our visit that this beach is super popular with locals in the summer.
We took a lovely photo walk around Cascais. The town was still decked out for Christmas when we visited in late December. Keep an eye out for fabulous doors, of course!
It was neat to see that the old fortress in Cascais had been turned into an artists' complex. There was also lots of cool street art to be found around Cascais.
You'll find a bunch of cute restaurants along a pedestrianized section of Cascais where each street is marked with art on the ground.
We ate lunch at Moules and Gin where we ordered two batches of mussels: champagne and Thai. Sadly, there would be no gin for me since I was doing the driving. Moules and Gin was delicious with a super friendly staff.