There is nothing quite like the anticipation of a trip to a new destination, and this was especially true of my recent adventure to the Azores.
This trip involved a number of "firsts". It was our first time visiting the Azores, an archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic that boasts stunning natural beauty and a unique cultural heritage.
It was our 1st flight in 2023 (hard to believe we've gone 5 months without stepping on a plane!). It was also our first domestic vacation by air since moving to Portugal.
Despite our excitement to embark on this trip, we couldn't control the weather, and we found ourselves facing a forecast of rain, wind, and fog on São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores.
But as it turned out, there were plenty of fun things to do on São Miguel Island, rain or shine. Here are 10 of our favorite activities to make the most of a rainy day on the island.
Getting to São Miguel
São Miguel, the largest of the Azorean islands, is located in the mid-Atlantic and is easily accessible from many parts of Europe and the United States. Here are some of the ways to get to São Miguel:
From Lisbon: As we learned on our trip, Ryanair flies from Terminal 2 in Lisbon. Simply follow the signs from the Metro and catch the free bus from Terminal 1. The journey takes about 3 minutes, and the bus promises a maximum 12-minute wait.
From points in Europe: There are many flights available to São Miguel from various points in Europe. Airlines such as TAP Portugal, Ryanair, and Azores Airlines offer direct flights from cities like London, Amsterdam, and Frankfurt.
From the U.S.: If you're traveling from the United States, you can fly to São Miguel via TAP Portugal from major cities such as New York, Boston, and Miami. You can also take a connecting flight from Lisbon.
From other islands in the Azores: If you're already in the Azores, you can take a short flight to São Miguel from other islands like Terceira or Pico.
Regardless of how you get to São Miguel, be sure to take in the views on the way. During our flight from Lisbon, we were treated to stunning vistas of the Vasco de Gama Bridge, a silo painted with a smiley face, and the rugged coastline dotted with clouds.
What is the Weather Like in São Miguel
What to Pack for a Trip to São Miguel
Where to Stay in São Miguel
Things to do in São Miguel at a Glance
- Take a Harbor Walk, but Keep to the Covered Paths
- Go to an Azorean Supermarket
- Take a Walk Through the Streets and Gardens of Ponta Delgada
- Visit Mercada da Graça
- Visit Some of the Churches in Ponta Delgada
- Grab a Drink Inside
- Tour Plantação de Ananás dos Açores
- Drive to Furnas Even If The Weather is Bad
- Enjoy Dinner with Local Azorean Specialties
- Museu Carlos Machado
Things to do in São Miguel in Detail
1. Take a Harbor Walk, but Keep to the Covered Paths
2. Go to an Azorean Supermarket
3. Take a Walk Through the Streets and Gardens of Ponta Delgada
4. Visit Mercada da Graça
If you're looking for a break from the rain or just want to do some indoor shopping, Mercado da Graça is a great option. We found ourselves taking refuge here when the rain started up again. The market is located in Ponta Delgada and offers an array of products, from fresh produce to souvenirs.
One of the highlights of our visit was a stop at O Rei dos Queijos, a cheese shop within the market. We picked up some green tea cookies and a hot sauce meant for fresh cheese, both of which were delicious. The market is also a fun place to browse and soak up the local atmosphere.
Don't forget to head below ground to the fruit and vegetable area at Mercado da Graça. Here, we found a good deal on Azorean pineapples, which are known for their sweetness and flavor.
We were able to snag two for just 5 EUR. It's definitely worth checking out this section of the market to see what local produce is available.
5. Visit Some of the Churches in Ponta Delgada
6. Grab a Drink Inside
7. Tour Plantação de Ananás dos Açores
When life gives you lemons and you're in the Azores, turn them into pineapples!
If you're looking for a fun and educational activity on a rainy day in São Miguel, be sure to visit Plantação de Ananás dos Açores! This Azorean pineapple plantation is just a short walk away from where we were staying and was open even on a national holiday in Portugal.
The plantation offers a free self-guided tour, where you can scan barcodes in the greenhouses to learn about pineapple production in the Azores. We were fascinated to learn that pineapples are grown in greenhouses using a labor-intensive, three-stage planting process that takes two years to bear fruit (pun intended 😅).
After our tour, we headed to the bar tent for a free tasting of pineapple liqueur and jam. We also ordered some items from the pineapple-themed menu, including pineapple caipirinhas and a dessert of pineapples flambeed in rum and cinnamon, served with vanilla ice cream.
The total cost was 17 EUR, which we thought was good value given the size and strength of the drinks and the effort involved in making the dessert dish.
Just a warning, though - the sugar overload can be a bit much, you'll definitely be in the mood for something savory to eat afterward!
8. Drive to Furnas Even If The Weather is Bad
Even if the weather doesn't cooperate, Furnas is a reasonable day trip to attempt from Ponta Delgada in the rain.
As we headed toward Furnas and the volcanic core of São Miguel island we stopped at a viewpoint by Vila Franco do Campo where we could see Ilheu de Vila Franca which was formed by the crater of a submerged volcano. The protected lake is popular with visitors.
We took a short but slightly harrowing steep, uphill drive to Ermida Nossa Senhora da Paz, a 16th-century chapel rebuilt in 1764. The 10 landings represent the Lord's Prayers of the Joyful and the Sorrowful Mysteries, and the steps represent Hail Marys (Combined this is 2/3 of a rosary).
The chapel itself at the top of the steps is modest, but the views are amazing. There is also a bathroom at the top which is useful on a road trip.
As we drove onward up and over the hills towards Lagoa das Furnas (Furnas Lake), the fog started to take hold. We were disappointed that we couldn't see much of the lake, but we decided to make the most of our trip and walked from the parking lot along the lake to the Monitoring and Research Center of Furnas.
For just 3 EUR per person, we were able to watch a short video about the geothermal characteristics of the area and see exhibits on the work they are doing to restore the health of the lake, which had been degraded by farming and pesticides.
We learned that Furnas Volcano is one of the three central active volcanoes on São Miguel and was formed about 30,000 years ago. Significant eruptions occurred in the mid 15th and 16th century.
Next, we drove to Antigo Pomar das Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas, where we paid a 3 EUR per person entry fee as we drove in (entrance is free if you live on Sao Miguel). We parked and walked around the boardwalks of boiling mud and fumaroles, which we thought was a little pricey for what it was.
However, it was interesting to see the holes where the volcanic cozido, a traditional Portuguese stew made from meat, vegetables, and other ingredients buried for seven hours, is made.
We continued our journey into Furnas, where we parked on the street and strolled through Jardim da Alameda. We were delighted to see Cascata e Aquário das Furnas, a flower-lined waterfall that was a highlight of our day trip. There was also a small outdoor aquarium nearby.
As we walked towards the church in Furnas, we spotted an upside-down house, which was a fun surprise. We then sought out Padaria Glória Moniz for a coffee and a Queijada das Furnas, a sweet cheese pastry topped with a coating of powdered sugar.
Despite the heavy rain and a seemingly endless detour due to road construction, we were determined to visit the popular Poça da Dona Beija natural thermal pools in Furnas.
We paid 8 EUR pp for 90 minutes and 4 EUR to rent a towel and 2 EUR for a locker. A cold shower was free, but it costs 1 EUR for 5 minutes if you want hot water. There were five different pools filled with rust-colored minerals lining a central channel, and we staked out a spot under a waterfall.
The pools varied in depth from 60 cm to 130 cm, and the temperature was 39°C across the board. Despite the chilly air, we felt fine walking between the pools.
9. Enjoy Dinner with Local Azorean Specialties
If you're looking for unique dining experiences in São Miguel, be sure to try some of the restaurants in São Miguel. You won't be disappointed with the delicious flavors and unique ingredients that are used in the dishes.
You can dine indoors which makes these culinary experiences a great idea to add to your list of things in São Miguel when it rains.
Here are some of the highlights of our dining experiences in São Miguel.
Michel's Restaurant
We had a dinner reservation at Michel's Restaurant, where we were able to sample some of the best local Azorean specialties. To start, we enjoyed limpets and garlic bread. Limpets, also known as lapas, are a type of sea snail that taste similar to a rubbery mussel (it's better than it sounds...)
For our mains, we had rare tuna in sesame and a pote de mar, which is a seafood stew that reminded me of a pot pie. Both dishes were filling and packed with flavor.
For dessert, we saved room for pineapple liqueur and pineapple mousse.
A Terra at Octant Hotel
A Terra at the Octant Hotel is another good choice for dinner. The large windows facing the sea make this an ideal restaurant to book into around the time the sun sets.
We started with a covert that included warm bread, seaweed butter, fresh Azorean cheese with pepper jam, and pork rillette, which is a soft meat spread. Next we enjoyed a fennel and maracuja salad, followed by beef cheeks with pureed sweet potatoes and beans with chorizo. The catch of the day was blackbelly, served with a red crab bread pudding that was surprisingly delicious.
Ice Cream Break!
10. Museu Carlos Machado
One of the most striking features of the museum is the stunning facade of the Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas in Ponta Delgada, which is a sight to behold. The Núcleo de Arte Sacra, the first building of the museum, features a Jesuit church with a beautifully carved wooden altar and historic paintings that are worth admiring.
One theme that connects all three buildings of Museu Carlos Machado is the extensive collection of taxidermy which is a highlight of the museum. I found the displays of birds to be particularly captivating, and it's fascinating to see so many different species up close.
Part of the museum is located in a historic convent with strict rules separating the sisters from outsiders. Visitors can learn about the convent's past and view the small iron door used during the Holy Communion.
"On the wall between the Sisters and the chapel or church, let there be a strong grille with fine iron bars, secured and filled with sharp nails to the outside and must there be a pierced iron blade with many small holes, with sharp nails, as said; in the middle, let there also be a small iron door, through which at the time of the Holy Communion may pass the chalice and through which the Priest may put his hand and administer the Blessed Sacrament of the Body of the Lord" ESPELHO de Perfeytas Religiozas. Exposição da Segunda Regra de S. Clara, 1718.
The third building of the museum featured a temporary exhibit on Prince Albert of Monaco's visit to the Azores on his yacht for scientific exploration. The exhibit provides insight into the prince's fascination with marine biology and his contribution to ocean conservation.
Don't forget to check out the bust of Prince Albert on the waterfront in Ponta Delgada.
Admission to the Museu Carlos Machado is 3 EUR per building or 5 EUR for a combo ticket to all three buildings. The museum is a great place to spend a rainy day in São Miguel, immersing yourself in the rich cultural and natural history of the Azores.
Is São Miguel Worth Visiting in April?
I have mixed feelings about our visit to São Miguel in April. There are generally fewer tourists around, which means less crowding at popular sites and a more relaxed atmosphere overall. However, the weather can be unpredictable, so you need to resign yourself that it is likely to rain.
It's worth noting that the island does see an influx of visitors in April due to Transatlantic Repositioning Cruises, which can bring in thousands of people at a time.
However, we found that even with these large ships in port, the town of Ponta Delgada didn't feel too crowded or overwhelming, particularly in the mid-afternoon when most of the passengers had re-boarded the ship.
Despite the potential for rain, I don't regret visiting São Miguel in April. The island has so much to offer in terms of natural beauty, culture, and history, and the quieter, more relaxed atmosphere of the off-season is more my style. It's also cheaper to visit at this time of year because there is less competition for flights, hotels, and rental cars.
Just be prepared to make a return trip to São Miguel during the summer if the weather doesn't cooperate and you don't get to see all the places on your wishlist.
Of course, you can always hedge your bets and combine a couple of Azorean islands on your itinerary to maximize your chances of encountering decent weather. We went to Sao Miguel and Terceira on this trip and the weather on Terceira was much better.
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